love Roses ...and other rabbit research
And why you might raise rabbits even if you are
Rabbits produce manure that is arguably the BEST for the gardeners'
purposes. It is ready for use with absolutely no composting:
no building bins, no heavy work turning the piles, no trucking
in loads of manure from animals who may be heavily medicated.
Just park an old wheelbarrow under the cage if you like, wheel
to the garden, and dump. If you want to water houseplants or
tender seedlings, make a manure tea using a quart or more of
rabbit droppings soaked in five gallons of water. Let it sit
for a day or two, stir a few times, then strain the tea into
your watering can to avoid clogging with the fine fibers. You
can dump the fibrous remainder around your berry bushes or other
shrubs as mulch.
the whole of the manure is mixed into soil for growing vegetables,
its combination of available nutrients and well broken-down
fiber mulch gives incredible results. I've gardened in large
plastic pots using intensive polyculture methods (basically
a major plant and a few smaller ones), and have produced lots
of food more reliably than most family gardeners in gopher and
deer country like California.
what's the cost? Well, wherever you live, there are probably
discarded "pet" rabbits at local animal shelters,
many of which may be nearly impossible to handle. These animals
could be rescued from "euthanasia" and allowed to
finish their lives in a cool shady corner of a garden or in-
a cage hanging from the north side of an outbuilding, or maybe
inside an old horse stall or garage if the winters are harsh.
Rabbits die from heat and wind, rarely just from cold temperatures.
Choose the large rabbits, as the tiny ones cannot live outside
even in milder climates. With some used cages and less than
$25 in watering equipment, rabbit manure can be produced right
in your own garden.
does this splendid organic manure cost? Rabbit pellets sell
for about $9 per 50-pound bag. Growing your own fodder will
be cheaper. You can cut costs by feeding the rabbits organic
waste from tree prunings and vegetables, but you must first
learn which plants are okay for general use, which for a small
portion of diet, and which are deadly, like swiss chard and
other oxalic acid plants.
there would be double satisfaction: at first, saving some small
animal lives that would otherwise be wasted. Then later, the
great joy of raising top-notch vegetables and fruits, and using
less water too!
raise rabbits?: Some generalities...
are the most economical, labor efficient, and practical way
to produce protein. This protein production also has some terrific
by-products. I've always been very interested in feeding the
hungry”it was my motivation from the beginning. It was
why I started out as a vegan, and how I've become a rabbit raiser.
I nearly cried for relief when I did my own conversion rates
and realized that with rabbits as clean and resilient as they
are, that is, needing no antibiotics, and as well as the manure
works, that THIS was the way we could feed everyone a nonchemical
diet without chemical "fertilizers," especially in
remote areas where nothing grows but brush, and the soil is
dry and depleted. I can grow veggies in almost any soil using
rabbit manure, and it holds moisture about as well as those
little "water pellet" granules made of cross-linked
polyacrylamides, which look like jello.
chicken, and turkey all have similar protein percentages by
weight, with beef, lamb, and pork being from 49% less. Rabbit
meat has nearly one gram more protein per ounce than chicken,
and nearly one gram less fat. It has 15 calories less per pound,
and here's the important one for lots of people: the cholesterol
is much lower, even than chicken white meat. AH other meats
range from 220-259 mg/lOOg, while rabbit has 164 mg/lOOg. Also
noteworthy, rabbit is the richest source of zinc except for
oysters, which are bottom feeders, difficult to farm, and very
going to several rabbit shows and studying the various
breeds, I came to understand that stock selection was
a most important factor. The type of rabbits I raise are
called "Satins." They are a large breed, derived
from a genetic mutation in the fur of some New Zealand
Whites back in the 1930's. This mutation caused a hollow
hair shaft, which gives a beautiful shine and quality
to the color of the coats of this "heavyweight"
breed. They come in lots of colors, and are generally
calmer and easier to handle without conditioning them
into pets than the smaller breeds. It's similar to dogs...the
little ones are hyperactive, the larger ones calmer. Of
course, in both animals this is not a rule, but a generality.
Satin of today is a very different breed from the New Zealands
because in order to put color on that fabulous hollow hair shaft
the white NZ mutation was crossed with many other breeds, and
then the body was reestablished. Sounds amazing, but as the
gestation for rabbits is only 30 days, you can go through quite
a few generations in a couple years. The Satin is genetically
diversified the natural way. Right now in the USA, I have heard
that the New Zealand breed has only six breeding lines! That
is way too few; we alI understand the disadvantages of monoculture
and lack of variety. A majority of the stock in such a rabbitry
can develop the same faults, or get sick from the same disease.
what I did in breeding: I took great stock from very distant
strains, and then bred the best I could get. I did not travel
the rabbit show circuits, but my rabbits got well known My favorites
are the red Siamese. I personally developed that particular
color and they have the quality of hybrid vigor. That is when
two diverse satins are crossed. and unusual strength, beauty,
size, or vigor is noted Though no one talks about it that way,
you can see the same results in humans with far-reaching "crosses"
like Chinese Puerto Ricans, or dark Africans with Swedes.)
to set up rabbit-raising equipment
important aspect of Raising rabbits is good equipment. Clean
new cages are wonderful, but many people start off with used
ones and clean them up. A Satin should have six square feet
of space, and such a cage costs $35 here in California. There
is an easy and cheap way to set up automatic water systems a
kind of "drip irrigation" for rabbits, so you never
need to fill water bottles, or bleach them from algae. Yippie!
Misters can be set up off these systems and turned on when temperatures
are too hot. Remember, rabbits die from sun and heat, almost
never from cold.
the cages with their floors about waist level. Cages can easily
be put onto walls with just a few 16- or 20-penny nails, and
a cut sapling or wooden two by- two to stabilize the front edge.
They can also be hung by chains from the rafters. The cages
can be purchased in groups of two to four, called 'holes."
If you plan on one pair of breeding rabbits, you can order a
three-hole cage” just hang it on a wall, and your rabbitry
is finished. Lay some old lightweight interior doors or discarded
plywood on top, and complete with feed bags hung around the
edges for shade or for wind and rain shelter. My first rabbitry
was built along a fence line, using the posts for supports”the
fence kept stray dogs out.
your rabbits live outside, you will need to keep foxes, dogs,
and raccoons away from the cages. I did that by using regular
stock fencing and a common garden gate with a spring hinge to
close it automatically. Outside of that fence, my dogs kept
off predators. In fact, one dog who would never stay home was
on a line that let her guard both the chicken house and the
was very proud of her job, well cared for, and praised daily.
I never lost any animals in over ten years.
on to details! What most people think they "know"
about rabbits is that they have a hot sex life. I think that
is very funny, once you really know how it works for this small
sex life of rabbits!
ARE HIGHLY TERRITORIAL. I would type this ten times down the
page if not for space constraints. Never ignore this when raising
these small, often fierce creatures. Rabbits, like dogs, cats,
and other small mamma!s, mark their territory by scent. Rabbits
do two things: they always try to pee in the same place, and
they mark things with a little gland located under the chin.
This marking is not noticeable to humans, but other animals
will sniff these spots. Understanding scent marking gives clues
to the animal's behavior, especially around breeding. Realize
that each rabbit owns it's cage and that space is its only defense
other than claws. Rabbis do not usually bite, but they do kick
and scratch when threatened.
breeding, ALWAYS place the female (called a doe) in the male's
cage, or else she will fight him, sometimes to the death. The
safest technique is to back the female into the male s cage
to avoid her leaping in, leaving claw marks on you from her
hind legs. It's a good idea to wear a long-sleeved shirt when
you plan to breed your rabbits. The male (called a buck) mounts
the female immediately she enters the cage, and the "act"
is finished in less than ten seconds. You can tell when he has
finished because he usually falls over onto his side, and this
is often accompanied by grunting, spasming, and gripping the
female's body. She does not usually move during this time. A
good buck will repeat within two to five minutes, so usually
this is allowed in case the female pees immediately and so eliminates
the sperm (this is rare).
the female does not lift her rear end up to allow entry, he
bites her on the shoulder (just a grip if he is a good production
stud: a nasty puncture wound if he is mean and rough). This
bite allows him to stay in place, and causes her to move forward,
which means her rear end lifts and then...see details above.
first time I had a buck six months old that I had raised, he
did it nine times in less than 15 minutes and didn't seem to
be able to stop. I was laughing and amazed at his antics. Suddenly
I remembered that they can have heart attacks from too much,
and snatched the doe out. He never did it more than twice in
10 minutes after that. He was a very noble and reliable fellow,
steel and black coat, named "GREYLORD."
12 hours the doe knows she is pregnant. If you aren't sure a
doe "took" a breeding, then you put her back in the
next day. If she is pregnant, she will press her bottom to the
floor and vigorously say "nunnnh- aaahhh. " It sounds
like "No way buster, just back off," and some more
aggressive does, who bred instantly the day before, will rear
up and strike at the buck with their forelegs. They may even
vigorously resist your taking them out of their own cage on
the second day, when the day previous they were only shy and
birth, and weaning
is 30 or 31 days. One hopes for eight "kits" because
the doe has eight nipples, and most nurse once a day. The milk
is very rich. Some can nurse up to 12 young but usually it is
better to breed two does at once, especially an older and younger
doe, and to foster the young doe's extra kits over to the older,
experienced nurser. Some old does can be kept nursing almost
constantly and don't care how many babies and mixed ages they
have. Usually fostering is done within five days of birth (before
they get much hair”their eyes open day 8-10).
you leave 14 babies in the box, the doe gets stressed out, and
more than half will die. Sometimes the babies will bite at the
doe trying to get more milk, and she will carry them out of
the nest box. Sometimes their crying when they don't get fed
or when they get stepped on by the bigger ones will so upset
the doe that she will stomp all of them to death, fearing danger
in an instinctive way. So, even if you have only one rabbit,
look carefully at the bunnies on the first day. If they are
even in size, and the next day two are smaller and six are larger,
it's best to remove the two small ones. Otherwise, those will
get skinny and rot away, or can get maggots in the summer. A
count must be made on day 1 or 2, and checked every day or two
thereafter to monitor conditions.
does have no interest in the bucks, and do not "need companionship."
Sometimes a buck or doe will kill the other when they are confined
together and the doe is pregnant. Bucks will try to mount does
when they are pregnant, but again, the good production animal
will stop when told by the doe, and actually looks kind of surprised,
like, "So why are you in my cage then?"
bucks will kill the babies if the buck and the doe are left
together. This is only done by people who have read nothing
about the animals they are keeping, or who don't realize that
one is pregnant, or else by those who think the "experts"
are wrong; they are soon very disappointed with their results.
(I have heard of one case when this did not happen, just for
the record.) In the wild, the doe would fight the buck and keep
him out of her nesting territory.
two weeks, bunnies can run and hide, and at three weeks, the
young rabbit can eat and be on its own. However, it is not recommended
to separate the babies from the doe until they are five weeks
old. If there are six bunnies, move the four largest ones to
their own clean cage, and leave the two smaller ones with the
mother for another week or so. It is amazing to watch those
two grow much faster without competition. This allows the doe
to "nurse down" so that she isn't suddenly without
bunnies to nurse, which could cause mastitis, or hardening
of the breast tissue and possible subsequent infection.
transplanted young bunnies will nibble for a day or two, and
then suddenly start eating with vigor. It's a good idea to press
the water nipple a few times each day for the first three days
until you are sure that at least one bunny is taking water regularly.
The others will learn very quickly! Actually, observation of
the young rabbits will show that most have started drinking
water at three weeks. They look very sweet drinking and washing
their faces afterwards at that age. If a production animal or
a pet is to be selected from the litter, three weeks is a good
time to start handling it once or twice a day, for about ten
minutes at first, then gradually increasing up to 30 minutes
at six weeks old. It's good to return the animal to the cage
so it can urinate, otherwise it may learn a bad habit”peeing
on you to get put back into the cage!
animals and selecting a pet
you recommend rabbits as pets?" asked a friend recently.
Well, yes I do, but there are lots of considerations. I like
rabbits, but I have a great dog for a pet, and a beauty of a
singing canary, which I adore. Really lifts the spirits to hear
his throaty song! I also have an aquarium with a few goldfish.
They are good for moving meditation. Chickens are great for
that, too. More than one person I know calls it "Chicken
television." It's fascinating. Very absorbing.
you plan to have a pet, and will spend a lot of time with the
young rabbit, you can take it from the litter to a separate
small cage in the kitchen or hall or some other quiet cool spot,
at about 35-40 days of age. (This is for larger rabbits”the
tiny ones develop slower.) By six weeks, with no handling at
all, young rabbits are quite rowdy, will kick and scratch vigorously,
and some-times "scream" in fear. Most cannot be truly
tamed after eight weeks of age if they have never been touched
as babies. When I lift them out to check them, once they have
a little hair, I usually blow gently on each one so they get
used to my scent and handling.
a little "trick" for taming a bunny. Remember”they
defend themselves by scent marking. Take the little bunny (begin
at three weeks old or when-ever you get it as a pet) and rub
its face on your face, especially if you are sweaty. Do this
every time just before you return the bunny to the cage. This
makes your "scent" one that is familiar to bunny when
she is relaxing in her own space, and thus is a "safe"
scent. Rabbits dislike perfume, and I have had very sensible
does and bucks freak out and race in circles when a person comes
to the rabbitry in a strong cologne or perfume.
great "handling technique" is called "BUNNY HYPNOSIS."
Here's how you do it: Hold the young bunny with your left thumb
in the center of bunny's chest and the rest of your left hand
firmly holding bunny's upper back. With your right hand under
the bunny's bottom, roll the bunny over so he is belly up, all
four feet upwards. He may begin to struggle in this position.
Sometimes you can practice this with a towel over a table, so
the table helps support the rabbit's weight, until you are skillful
enough to do it in your arms. With the buttocks supported, grasp
the bunny around the waist and stroke gently and slowly downward,
causing the bunny to elongate."How LOONNNGGG can bunny
get?" I say softly as people watch this taming technique.
After two to four relaxing passes, I gradually let the bunny's
weight hang from my left hand, and the bunny hangs with eyes
half shut. Then I gently swing his hips, and bunny does not
notice...he is hypnotized! The people burst into laughter..
.bunny promptly wakes up and is ready to race away!
may seem a silly technique, but it really does build trust with
the rabbit. If a rabbit will become tame, this is one good way
to do it, because all rabbits nurse on their backs, and it is
their most vulnerable position. Probably one cannot use this
system with an adult rabbit. I have never tried, because most
are far too defensive and scratchy.
you want something to pet, a rabbit is nice but probably won't
come when called, you will usually have to get it out of the
cage. A few people have been able to let them run free without
problems. Most people keep them in a well- fenced yard, with
a protective cage on ground level. Some feed bunny at night
and lock him in, and some bunnies will come if it is routine.
Others are loose, and that is that. Goddess help you if you
love roses, eating thorns and all. They chew all young fruit
trees, eating the bark like candy. For the indoors, the biggest
hassle: They EAT plastic, including computer cords, telephone
wires, and anything else at their level. Sometimes they get
electrocuted, or get constipated and die, in addition to ruining
equipment. Biggest advantage: rabbits train easily to a litter
box, as they are very scent oriented. Also, their treats are
certain fruits and veggies that you have around, thus are inexpensive
and convenient. And they are vegan, so do not require the inefficient
meat industry to produce their food.
you had a six-week old puppy, kitten, and bunny in a large empty
room, and a human sat down in the middle, within an hour (even
if totally unsocialized), the puppy would be on your lap; the
kitten would be if the puppy wasn't. Days later the bunny would
still be hiding in a corner. Rabbits are a lot like birds.
you condition a bird by feeding and repeated handling, especially
when it is young, you can get it to sit on your shoulder, eat
from your hand and do various tricks. Most birds will NOT do
that with someone else. They are conditioned to the sight, smell,
touch, and voice of the trainer. Rabbits are like that too.
Basically they want to eat, f**k, and be left the f**k alone!
It never ceases to amaze me when people come to my home, and
go up and tap on the canary's cage and say, "HI HI BIRDIE"
and the bird is freaking out, banging his head on the cage wall
and fluttering. Sometimes the person says "What's the matter
with your bird? Hey bird, CALM DOWN!" As if the bird speaks
English and will listen to some stranger giving orders! Just
birds, and rabbits too, direct eye contact and relating face
and body directly towards them means that YOU are a predator
and plan to eat them. When I go to clean the bird cage, I approach
slowly and quietly, not looking at the bird, and not talking
much either except very softly. "Hi Tweety, Hi Tweety.
Just changing your cage paper.. .it's okay," because he
is accustomed to my voice in normal tones. It is the most common
sound he hears except water running, which he loves, bursting
into song from the high notes of the pipes rushing. Eye contact
works the same with chickens too, but they have quite a few
words of language which one can learn to speak. My children
at daycare are learning a few words of chicken. Manuel came
back this week, having given the chickens cantaloupe seeds (a
big favorite) and I asked "Well, what did they say?"
He replied "They were happy, and ran over and said 'Awww
ta dut dut dut too'." (Kind of hard to write chicken! Never
tried it before!) That phrase means "Hey looky, great things
to eat," and is usually said by the rooster if he is there,
or by the senior hen in any group.
ten years I sold pets under the name "The BUNNY Trading
Club." People could buy a bunny for $15 with a small bag
of food. (You can't switch foods real fast, especially with
babies, it's like formula.) Before bunny was six months old,
it was returnable and a new bunny could be had for a five dollar
trade-in fee. KIDS LOVED THIS! The small child loves the baby
bunnies. Parents get attached to the known individual, but the
kids would say "Bye-bye Georgie" to the old rabbit
and march off with their new friend. The parents could ALWAYS
give me back the rabbit, even years later, which everyone said
was a great advantage if they had to move, or go on a long vacation.
This avoids the animals being "euthanized" or worse,
being turned loose in the wild "...so they could have their
freedom." That means these domestic creatures die a terrified
death from dogs, cats, raccoons, hawks, foxes, or automobiles.
They are the lowest in the natural food chain, even with their
18 razor sharp claws, because they get scared very easily, and
die really fast.
very convenient thing about a rabbit pet is you can take a rabbit
in a cage to a friend's porch when you go away, and it just
requires feeding and watering 2-3 times a week. This is WAY
LESS hassle than cats, and much less time than caring for dogs.
other tip about selecting a pet. The largest, most beautiful
rabbit is often the most dominant, and the least likely to make
a good pet. The shy little runt is usually a far better choice.
Pick up the rabbits, handle them, watch how they behave with
another person, and select by feel and behavior, not by appearance.
(Hmm...this is good advice for any relationship in my opinion!)
fryer rabbits for meat production
the young rabbits are caged by themselves, they will still behave
as a litter. If you are weaning several litters at a time, you
may want to "sex" and separate the rabbits at weaning,
bucks in one cage, does in another. Because if the litter develops
quickly and you let time slip away from you, you can have a
few very young does pregnant at four months old. Also, the young
animals will be very rowdy and the bucks will be fighting by
rabbits should be fed nearly "free choice" which means
there is feed in front of them most of the time. Some people
say feed less, and feed twice a day, but I had the best fryers
and I fed once a day and packed the feeders full, and the bunnies
"dressed out" at three to three and one- half pounds
of clean, pink, meat at about 12 weeks old. I've learned to
never give bucks more than 1 cup of feed per day. It gets stale,
they get fat and don't breed.
the amazing protein production statistic:
mature female rabbit produces a litter in 30-31 days. A litter
of eight can yield 28 pounds of clean, all-white meat in just
12 weeks of growth. (The animals themselves will weigh over
five pounds each.) Therefore, a ten-pound doe can triple her
body weight in edible protein in just four months! Rabbit meat
is higher in protein, lower in cholesterol, and the highest
known source of zinc besides oysters. I'd like to know if anyone
has any protein production figures that equal or top this, thanks.
for the small rabbitry
all cases below, animals are on the Edstrom water nipple system,
which means you only need to put in pelleted feed.
a large commercial rabbitry, which might contain 200-1000
working does, modern methods in use include a spray water
system below each cage which removes all urine and droppings
once an hour. The resultant nutrient-rich water is piped
directly to adjacent agricultural use. One other system
has large trenches under the rows of rabbits, where red
worms thrive and are sold as a separate business. A front-end
loader is used to handle the worm-filled manure. I don't
know much about the capital investment or the profits
from such businesses, but there are plenty of books and
the ARBA magazine for advice at this level. That's the
American Rabbit Breeders Association, PO Box 426, Bloomington,
IL 61702 Email address: firstname.lastname@example.org.
numbers: I had about 25 working adult does and 5-7 bucks when
I had my little farm near the coast in Northern California.
It took about 50 lbs.”one bag of food a day to keep them
all. I made about $100 a week from them, sometimes more if I
sold breeders or pets (the famous "BUNNY TRADING CLUB"
was beloved of the local children there. Once, it was even on
local TV at Easter time!)
now I have three does, one senior buck, and one younger buck.
This is a family-sized rabbitry. I just started this rabbitry
in March of 2001, searching around for my old stock. Luckily
a friend had quite a few. I check my rabbits three to four times
a week, filling their feeders full to allow free choice feeding.
Many people feed their rabbits twice a day, in very small amounts,
to keep track of their production costs and how well the animals
are eating. I value my time, so I just fill up the feeders (except
for the bucks which only get a cup / day).
are times when you might not want to use my system. One reason
could be if you have rats or other predators competing for the
food, and the other is if it is raining a lot, because the feed
can get damp; lose nutrition, and become unpalatable to the
rabbits. Rabbits will not eat dust, so it's good to use the
drop feeders with wire mesh bottoms, so that the dust falls
out and the pellets roll down into the feeder inside the cage.
A great way to keep the feeders dry is to hang an empty feed
bag over the outside. Feed bags have a very thin layer of plastic
in between the layers of brown paper.
keep excellent track of breeding days, usually by keeping a
marking pen and a roll of two-inch wide masking tape handy.
I write a note every time I put a doe in with a buck, with the
date clearly marked. Nest boxes go in five days before birth.
Be sure to get the correct size box. The doe must have room
to turn around without stepping on the bunnies. I place about
three to four quarts of pine shavings in the nest, which is
one to two inches deep in the bottom of the box, and two big
handfuls of straw, any kind. Never use redwood shavings or redwood
resting boards or make nest boxes from redwood. It is toxic
to rabbits. They love to gnaw on wood and eat fruitwood twigs
and saplings as a natural part of their diet.
very careful not to let curious people "check" to
see if the baby bunnies have come. The does get very nervous.
Only the regular person should be near the rabbits when bunnies
are due. And for the next ten days until the eyes are open no
one else should touch them. I do sometimes allow a child, sworn
to silence, to peer into the nest box, filled with fur and moving
gently. The doe pulls all the fur from her nipples and leaves
them nude so the bunnies can nurse. She sometimes will rip fur
from other parts of her body, until the box nearly overflows
with fur. Do not remove any of this, unless temperatures are
very high, 90° F. In fact, if you know of an upholstery
shop, buy a few pounds of kapok, which is a kind of pillow stuffing
from the inside of a kapok tree. It is the best substitute for
fur, in case it gets very cold or the doe fails to pull enough
sanitation: This takes less than two hours a week. Do not allow
matted hair and urine or wet droppings to build up anywhere.
Use a wire brush to clear away accumulations. Brush the cage
floor from both sides. Use water and a wide paint scraper if
the buildup is too much for the wire brush. For a really messy
cage, put the rabbit in a holding area and scrub the entire
cage with soap and bleach, then rinse thoroughly. Generally,
healthy animals do not have these problems. Often a temporary
case of somewhat wet droppings can be fixed by giving the animals
a handful of clean straw, which adds fiber to the diet. A rabbit
with consistent diarrhea may be seriously ill, possibly with
"wool block" which happens more with long-haired animals,
and is similar to fur ball problems in cats. By the way, one
strange bit of information: any medicines that are good for
cats can also be used on rabbits, such as ear mite medicine,
etc. It's odd because rabbits are completely vegan, and cats
three large fryers, about ten pounds of cleaned meat, brings
about $35. So selling three of them can cover feed costs for
about six to eight weeks, at $9 for 50 lbs. There will still
be plenty of meat to feed your family, and an occasional pet
to sell. Financially, this is the most economical way to raise
domestic meat. It is also the • most land-conservative,
both from the small size of land used to house the animals and
the amount of acreage needed to provide food for this valuable
source of protein.
research, which I hope will be done in various Permaculture
enclaves all over the world, we could determine just which plants
to feed for creating a completely recycled system, needing no
cash money at all, past equipment costs. The best hint I have
so far (from Bill Mollison) is that the fiber plant called kenaf
(seeds available from Texas International Kenaf Center) contains
adequate nutrition and needs no preparation at all. The leaves,
stalks, and flowers are simply cut and placed in the cages.
I have not had opportunity to observe this however, so I don't
know from personal experience just how this fresh food system
affects rabbit production and general health. Comfrey can be
fed to rabbits as a supplement, though not as a staple. Small
pressed blocks of alfalfa are fed by many rabbit raisers, and
give rabbits something to gnaw on.
share new information about rabbits, especially relating to
permaculture. If enough people send me information, I will start
an email update quarterly. Also, we could share information
about who has rabbits in various locations, and help design
a working rabbitry near each permaculture course location.
Email Jane Hunnicutt