love Roses ...and other rabbit research
And why you might raise rabbits even if
you are vegan
Rabbits produce manure that is arguably the BEST for the
gardeners' purposes. It is ready for use with absolutely
no composting: no building bins, no heavy work turning
the piles, no trucking in loads of manure from animals
who may be heavily medicated. Just park an old wheelbarrow
under the cage if you like, wheel to the garden, and dump.
If you want to water houseplants or tender seedlings,
make a manure tea using a quart or more of rabbit droppings
soaked in five gallons of water. Let it sit for a day
or two, stir a few times, then strain the tea into your
watering can to avoid clogging with the fine fibers. You
can dump the fibrous remainder around your berry bushes
or other shrubs as mulch.
the whole of the manure is mixed into soil for growing
vegetables, its combination of available nutrients and
well broken-down fiber mulch gives incredible results.
I've gardened in large plastic pots using intensive polyculture
methods (basically a major plant and a few smaller ones),
and have produced lots of food more reliably than most
family gardeners in gopher and deer country like California.
what's the cost? Well, wherever you live, there are probably
discarded "pet" rabbits at local animal shelters,
many of which may be nearly impossible to handle. These
animals could be rescued from "euthanasia" and
allowed to finish their lives in a cool shady corner of
a garden or in- a cage hanging from the north side of
an outbuilding, or maybe inside an old horse stall or
garage if the winters are harsh. Rabbits die from heat
and wind, rarely just from cold temperatures. Choose the
large rabbits, as the tiny ones cannot live outside even
in milder climates. With some used cages and less than
$25 in watering equipment, rabbit manure can be produced
right in your own garden.
does this splendid organic manure cost? Rabbit pellets
sell for about $9 per 50-pound bag. Growing your own fodder
will be cheaper. You can cut costs by feeding the rabbits
organic waste from tree prunings and vegetables, but you
must first learn which plants are okay for general use,
which for a small portion of diet, and which are deadly,
like swiss chard and other oxalic acid plants.
there would be double satisfaction: at first, saving some
small animal lives that would otherwise be wasted. Then
later, the great joy of raising top-notch vegetables and
fruits, and using less water too!
raise rabbits?: Some generalities...
are the most economical, labor efficient, and practical
way to produce protein. This protein production also has
some terrific by-products. I've always been very interested
in feeding the hungry”it was my motivation from
the beginning. It was why I started out as a vegan, and
how I've become a rabbit raiser. I nearly cried for relief
when I did my own conversion rates and realized that with
rabbits as clean and resilient as they are, that is, needing
no antibiotics, and as well as the manure works, that
THIS was the way we could feed everyone a nonchemical
diet without chemical "fertilizers," especially
in remote areas where nothing grows but brush, and the
soil is dry and depleted. I can grow veggies in almost
any soil using rabbit manure, and it holds moisture about
as well as those little "water pellet" granules
made of cross-linked polyacrylamides, which look like
chicken, and turkey all have similar protein percentages
by weight, with beef, lamb, and pork being from 49% less.
Rabbit meat has nearly one gram more protein per ounce
than chicken, and nearly one gram less fat. It has 15
calories less per pound, and here's the important one
for lots of people: the cholesterol is much lower, even
than chicken white meat. AH other meats range from 220-259
mg/lOOg, while rabbit has 164 mg/lOOg. Also noteworthy,
rabbit is the richest source of zinc except for oysters,
which are bottom feeders, difficult to farm, and very
going to several rabbit shows and studying the various
breeds, I came to understand that stock selection was
a most important factor. The type of rabbits I raise are
called "Satins." They are a large breed, derived
from a genetic mutation in the fur of some New Zealand
Whites back in the 1930's. This mutation caused a hollow
hair shaft, which gives a beautiful shine and quality
to the color of the coats of this "heavyweight"
breed. They come in lots of colors, and are generally
calmer and easier to handle without conditioning them
into pets than the smaller breeds. It's similar to dogs...the
little ones are hyperactive, the larger ones calmer. Of
course, in both animals this is not a rule, but a generality.
Satin of today is a very different breed from the New
Zealands because in order to put color on that fabulous
hollow hair shaft the white NZ mutation was crossed with
many other breeds, and then the body was reestablished.
Sounds amazing, but as the gestation for rabbits is only
30 days, you can go through quite a few generations in
a couple years. The Satin is genetically diversified the
natural way. Right now in the USA, I have heard that the
New Zealand breed has only six breeding lines! That is
way too few; we alI understand the disadvantages of monoculture
and lack of variety. A majority of the stock in such a
rabbitry can develop the same faults, or get sick from
the same disease.
what I did in breeding: I took great stock from very distant
strains, and then bred the best I could get. I did not
travel the rabbit show circuits, but my rabbits got well
known My favorites are the red Siamese. I personally developed
that particular color and they have the quality of hybrid
vigor. That is when two diverse satins are crossed. and
unusual strength, beauty, size, or vigor is noted Though
no one talks about it that way, you can see the same results
in humans with far-reaching "crosses" like Chinese
Puerto Ricans, or dark Africans with Swedes.)
to set up rabbit-raising equipment
important aspect of Raising rabbits is good equipment.
Clean new cages are wonderful, but many people start off
with used ones and clean them up. A Satin should have
six square feet of space, and such a cage costs $35 here
in California. There is an easy and cheap way to set up
automatic water systems a kind of "drip irrigation"
for rabbits, so you never need to fill water bottles,
or bleach them from algae. Yippie! Misters can be set
up off these systems and turned on when temperatures are
too hot. Remember, rabbits die from sun and heat, almost
never from cold.
the cages with their floors about waist level. Cages can
easily be put onto walls with just a few 16- or 20-penny
nails, and a cut sapling or wooden two by- two to stabilize
the front edge. They can also be hung by chains from the
rafters. The cages can be purchased in groups of two to
four, called 'holes." If you plan on one pair of
breeding rabbits, you can order a three-hole cage”
just hang it on a wall, and your rabbitry is finished.
Lay some old lightweight interior doors or discarded plywood
on top, and complete with feed bags hung around the edges
for shade or for wind and rain shelter. My first rabbitry
was built along a fence line, using the posts for supports”the
fence kept stray dogs out.
your rabbits live outside, you will need to keep foxes,
dogs, and raccoons away from the cages. I did that by
using regular stock fencing and a common garden gate with
a spring hinge to close it automatically. Outside of that
fence, my dogs kept off predators. In fact, one dog who
would never stay home was on a line that let her guard
both the chicken house and the rabbitry.
was very proud of her job, well cared for, and praised
daily. I never lost any animals in over ten years.
on to details! What most people think they "know"
about rabbits is that they have a hot sex life. I think
that is very funny, once you really know how it works
for this small mammal.
sex life of rabbits!
ARE HIGHLY TERRITORIAL. I would type this ten times down
the page if not for space constraints. Never ignore this
when raising these small, often fierce creatures. Rabbits,
like dogs, cats, and other small mamma!s, mark their territory
by scent. Rabbits do two things: they always try to pee
in the same place, and they mark things with a little
gland located under the chin. This marking is not noticeable
to humans, but other animals will sniff these spots. Understanding
scent marking gives clues to the animal's behavior, especially
around breeding. Realize that each rabbit owns it's cage
and that space is its only defense other than claws. Rabbis
do not usually bite, but they do kick and scratch when
breeding, ALWAYS place the female (called a doe) in the
male's cage, or else she will fight him, sometimes to
the death. The safest technique is to back the female
into the male s cage to avoid her leaping in, leaving
claw marks on you from her hind legs. It's a good idea
to wear a long-sleeved shirt when you plan to breed your
rabbits. The male (called a buck) mounts the female immediately
she enters the cage, and the "act" is finished
in less than ten seconds. You can tell when he has finished
because he usually falls over onto his side, and this
is often accompanied by grunting, spasming, and gripping
the female's body. She does not usually move during this
time. A good buck will repeat within two to five minutes,
so usually this is allowed in case the female pees immediately
and so eliminates the sperm (this is rare).
the female does not lift her rear end up to allow entry,
he bites her on the shoulder (just a grip if he is a good
production stud: a nasty puncture wound if he is mean
and rough). This bite allows him to stay in place, and
causes her to move forward, which means her rear end lifts
and then...see details above.
first time I had a buck six months old that I had raised,
he did it nine times in less than 15 minutes and didn't
seem to be able to stop. I was laughing and amazed at
his antics. Suddenly I remembered that they can have heart
attacks from too much, and snatched the doe out. He never
did it more than twice in 10 minutes after that. He was
a very noble and reliable fellow, steel and black coat,
12 hours the doe knows she is pregnant. If you aren't
sure a doe "took" a breeding, then you put her
back in the next day. If she is pregnant, she will press
her bottom to the floor and vigorously say "nunnnh-
aaahhh. " It sounds like "No way buster, just
back off," and some more aggressive does, who bred
instantly the day before, will rear up and strike at the
buck with their forelegs. They may even vigorously resist
your taking them out of their own cage on the second day,
when the day previous they were only shy and skittish
birth, and weaning
is 30 or 31 days. One hopes for eight "kits"
because the doe has eight nipples, and most nurse once
a day. The milk is very rich. Some can nurse up to 12
young but usually it is better to breed two does at once,
especially an older and younger doe, and to foster the
young doe's extra kits over to the older, experienced
nurser. Some old does can be kept nursing almost constantly
and don't care how many babies and mixed ages they have.
Usually fostering is done within five days of birth (before
they get much hair”their eyes open day 8-10).
you leave 14 babies in the box, the doe gets stressed
out, and more than half will die. Sometimes the babies
will bite at the doe trying to get more milk, and she
will carry them out of the nest box. Sometimes their crying
when they don't get fed or when they get stepped on by
the bigger ones will so upset the doe that she will stomp
all of them to death, fearing danger in an instinctive
way. So, even if you have only one rabbit, look carefully
at the bunnies on the first day. If they are even in size,
and the next day two are smaller and six are larger, it's
best to remove the two small ones. Otherwise, those will
get skinny and rot away, or can get maggots in the summer.
A count must be made on day 1 or 2, and checked every
day or two thereafter to monitor conditions.
does have no interest in the bucks, and do not "need
companionship." Sometimes a buck or doe will kill
the other when they are confined together and the doe
is pregnant. Bucks will try to mount does when they are
pregnant, but again, the good production animal will stop
when told by the doe, and actually looks kind of surprised,
like, "So why are you in my cage then?"
bucks will kill the babies if the buck and the doe are
left together. This is only done by people who have read
nothing about the animals they are keeping, or who don't
realize that one is pregnant, or else by those who think
the "experts" are wrong; they are soon very
disappointed with their results. (I have heard of one
case when this did not happen, just for the record.) In
the wild, the doe would fight the buck and keep him out
of her nesting territory.
two weeks, bunnies can run and hide, and at three weeks,
the young rabbit can eat and be on its own. However, it
is not recommended to separate the babies from the doe
until they are five weeks old. If there are six bunnies,
move the four largest ones to their own clean cage, and
leave the two smaller ones with the mother for another
week or so. It is amazing to watch those two grow much
faster without competition. This allows the doe to "nurse
down" so that she isn't suddenly without bunnies
to nurse, which could cause mastitis, or hardening
of the breast tissue and possible subsequent infection.
transplanted young bunnies will nibble for a day or two,
and then suddenly start eating with vigor. It's a good
idea to press the water nipple a few times each day for
the first three days until you are sure that at least
one bunny is taking water regularly. The others will learn
very quickly! Actually, observation of the young rabbits
will show that most have started drinking water at three
weeks. They look very sweet drinking and washing their
faces afterwards at that age. If a production animal or
a pet is to be selected from the litter, three weeks is
a good time to start handling it once or twice a day,
for about ten minutes at first, then gradually increasing
up to 30 minutes at six weeks old. It's good to return
the animal to the cage so it can urinate, otherwise it
may learn a bad habit”peeing on you to get put back
into the cage!
animals and selecting a pet
you recommend rabbits as pets?" asked a friend recently.
Well, yes I do, but there are lots of considerations.
I like rabbits, but I have a great dog for a pet, and
a beauty of a singing canary, which I adore. Really lifts
the spirits to hear his throaty song! I also have an aquarium
with a few goldfish. They are good for moving meditation.
Chickens are great for that, too. More than one person
I know calls it "Chicken television." It's fascinating.
you plan to have a pet, and will spend a lot of time with
the young rabbit, you can take it from the litter to a
separate small cage in the kitchen or hall or some other
quiet cool spot, at about 35-40 days of age. (This is
for larger rabbits”the tiny ones develop slower.)
By six weeks, with no handling at all, young rabbits are
quite rowdy, will kick and scratch vigorously, and some-times
"scream" in fear. Most cannot be truly tamed
after eight weeks of age if they have never been touched
as babies. When I lift them out to check them, once they
have a little hair, I usually blow gently on each one
so they get used to my scent and handling.
a little "trick" for taming a bunny. Remember”they
defend themselves by scent marking. Take the little bunny
(begin at three weeks old or when-ever you get it as a
pet) and rub its face on your face, especially if you
are sweaty. Do this every time just before you return
the bunny to the cage. This makes your "scent"
one that is familiar to bunny when she is relaxing in
her own space, and thus is a "safe" scent. Rabbits
dislike perfume, and I have had very sensible does and
bucks freak out and race in circles when a person comes
to the rabbitry in a strong cologne or perfume.
great "handling technique" is called "BUNNY
HYPNOSIS." Here's how you do it: Hold the young bunny
with your left thumb in the center of bunny's chest and
the rest of your left hand firmly holding bunny's upper
back. With your right hand under the bunny's bottom, roll
the bunny over so he is belly up, all four feet upwards.
He may begin to struggle in this position. Sometimes you
can practice this with a towel over a table, so the table
helps support the rabbit's weight, until you are skillful
enough to do it in your arms. With the buttocks supported,
grasp the bunny around the waist and stroke gently and
slowly downward, causing the bunny to elongate."How
LOONNNGGG can bunny get?" I say softly as people
watch this taming technique. After two to four relaxing
passes, I gradually let the bunny's weight hang from my
left hand, and the bunny hangs with eyes half shut. Then
I gently swing his hips, and bunny does not notice...he
is hypnotized! The people burst into laughter.. .bunny
promptly wakes up and is ready to race away!
may seem a silly technique, but it really does build trust
with the rabbit. If a rabbit will become tame, this is
one good way to do it, because all rabbits nurse on their
backs, and it is their most vulnerable position. Probably
one cannot use this system with an adult rabbit. I have
never tried, because most are far too defensive and scratchy.
you want something to pet, a rabbit is nice but probably
won't come when called, you will usually have to get it
out of the cage. A few people have been able to let them
run free without problems. Most people keep them in a
well- fenced yard, with a protective cage on ground level.
Some feed bunny at night and lock him in, and some bunnies
will come if it is routine. Others are loose, and that
is that. Goddess help you if you have roses!
love roses, eating thorns and all. They chew all young
fruit trees, eating the bark like candy. For the indoors,
the biggest hassle: They EAT plastic, including computer
cords, telephone wires, and anything else at their level.
Sometimes they get electrocuted, or get constipated and
die, in addition to ruining equipment. Biggest advantage:
rabbits train easily to a litter box, as they are very
scent oriented. Also, their treats are certain fruits
and veggies that you have around, thus are inexpensive
and convenient. And they are vegan, so do not require
the inefficient meat industry to produce their food.
you had a six-week old puppy, kitten, and bunny in a large
empty room, and a human sat down in the middle, within
an hour (even if totally unsocialized), the puppy would
be on your lap; the kitten would be if the puppy wasn't.
Days later the bunny would still be hiding in a corner.
Rabbits are a lot like birds.
you condition a bird by feeding and repeated handling,
especially when it is young, you can get it to sit on
your shoulder, eat from your hand and do various tricks.
Most birds will NOT do that with someone else. They are
conditioned to the sight, smell, touch, and voice of the
trainer. Rabbits are like that too. Basically they want
to eat, f**k, and be left the f**k alone! It never ceases
to amaze me when people come to my home, and go up and
tap on the canary's cage and say, "HI HI BIRDIE"
and the bird is freaking out, banging his head on the
cage wall and fluttering. Sometimes the person says "What's
the matter with your bird? Hey bird, CALM DOWN!"
As if the bird speaks English and will listen to some
stranger giving orders! Just amazing ignorance.
birds, and rabbits too, direct eye contact and relating
face and body directly towards them means that YOU are
a predator and plan to eat them. When I go to clean the
bird cage, I approach slowly and quietly, not looking
at the bird, and not talking much either except very softly.
"Hi Tweety, Hi Tweety. Just changing your cage paper..
.it's okay," because he is accustomed to my voice
in normal tones. It is the most common sound he hears
except water running, which he loves, bursting into song
from the high notes of the pipes rushing. Eye contact
works the same with chickens too, but they have quite
a few words of language which one can learn to speak.
My children at daycare are learning a few words of chicken.
Manuel came back this week, having given the chickens
cantaloupe seeds (a big favorite) and I asked "Well,
what did they say?" He replied "They were happy,
and ran over and said 'Awww ta dut dut dut too'."
(Kind of hard to write chicken! Never tried it before!)
That phrase means "Hey looky, great things to eat,"
and is usually said by the rooster if he is there, or
by the senior hen in any group.
ten years I sold pets under the name "The BUNNY Trading
Club." People could buy a bunny for $15 with a small
bag of food. (You can't switch foods real fast, especially
with babies, it's like formula.) Before bunny was six
months old, it was returnable and a new bunny could be
had for a five dollar trade-in fee. KIDS LOVED THIS! The
small child loves the baby bunnies. Parents get attached
to the known individual, but the kids would say "Bye-bye
Georgie" to the old rabbit and march off with their
new friend. The parents could ALWAYS give me back the
rabbit, even years later, which everyone said was a great
advantage if they had to move, or go on a long vacation.
This avoids the animals being "euthanized" or
worse, being turned loose in the wild "...so they
could have their freedom." That means these domestic
creatures die a terrified death from dogs, cats, raccoons,
hawks, foxes, or automobiles. They are the lowest in the
natural food chain, even with their 18 razor sharp claws,
because they get scared very easily, and die really fast.
very convenient thing about a rabbit pet is you can take
a rabbit in a cage to a friend's porch when you go away,
and it just requires feeding and watering 2-3 times a
week. This is WAY LESS hassle than cats, and much less
time than caring for dogs.
other tip about selecting a pet. The largest, most beautiful
rabbit is often the most dominant, and the least likely
to make a good pet. The shy little runt is usually a far
better choice. Pick up the rabbits, handle them, watch
how they behave with another person, and select by feel
and behavior, not by appearance. (Hmm...this is good advice
for any relationship in my opinion!)
fryer rabbits for meat production
the young rabbits are caged by themselves, they will still
behave as a litter. If you are weaning several litters
at a time, you may want to "sex" and separate
the rabbits at weaning, bucks in one cage, does in another.
Because if the litter develops quickly and you let time
slip away from you, you can have a few very young does
pregnant at four months old. Also, the young animals will
be very rowdy and the bucks will be fighting by that time.
rabbits should be fed nearly "free choice" which
means there is feed in front of them most of the time.
Some people say feed less, and feed twice a day, but I
had the best fryers and I fed once a day and packed the
feeders full, and the bunnies "dressed out"
at three to three and one- half pounds of clean, pink,
meat at about 12 weeks old. I've learned to never give
bucks more than 1 cup of feed per day. It gets stale,
they get fat and don't breed.
the amazing protein production statistic:
mature female rabbit produces a litter in 30-31 days.
A litter of eight can yield 28 pounds of clean, all-white
meat in just 12 weeks of growth. (The animals themselves
will weigh over five pounds each.) Therefore, a ten-pound
doe can triple her body weight in edible protein in just
four months! Rabbit meat is higher in protein, lower in
cholesterol, and the highest known source of zinc besides
oysters. I'd like to know if anyone has any protein production
figures that equal or top this, thanks.
for the small rabbitry
all cases below, animals are on the Edstrom water nipple
system, which means you only need to put in pelleted feed.
a large commercial rabbitry, which might contain 200-1000
working does, modern methods in use include a spray water
system below each cage which removes all urine and droppings
once an hour. The resultant nutrient-rich water is piped
directly to adjacent agricultural use. One other system
has large trenches under the rows of rabbits, where red
worms thrive and are sold as a separate business. A front-end
loader is used to handle the worm-filled manure. I don't
know much about the capital investment or the profits
from such businesses, but there are plenty of books and
the ARBA magazine for advice at this level. That's the
American Rabbit Breeders Association, PO Box 426, Bloomington,
IL 61702 Email address: email@example.com.
numbers: I had about 25 working adult does and 5-7 bucks
when I had my little farm near the coast in Northern California.
It took about 50 lbs.”one bag of food a day to keep
them all. I made about $100 a week from them, sometimes
more if I sold breeders or pets (the famous "BUNNY
TRADING CLUB" was beloved of the local children there.
Once, it was even on local TV at Easter time!)
now I have three does, one senior buck, and one younger
buck. This is a family-sized rabbitry. I just started
this rabbitry in March of 2001, searching around for my
old stock. Luckily a friend had quite a few. I check my
rabbits three to four times a week, filling their feeders
full to allow free choice feeding. Many people feed their
rabbits twice a day, in very small amounts, to keep track
of their production costs and how well the animals are
eating. I value my time, so I just fill up the feeders
(except for the bucks which only get a cup / day).
are times when you might not want to use my system. One
reason could be if you have rats or other predators competing
for the food, and the other is if it is raining a lot,
because the feed can get damp; lose nutrition, and become
unpalatable to the rabbits. Rabbits will not eat dust,
so it's good to use the drop feeders with wire mesh bottoms,
so that the dust falls out and the pellets roll down into
the feeder inside the cage. A great way to keep the feeders
dry is to hang an empty feed bag over the outside. Feed
bags have a very thin layer of plastic in between the
layers of brown paper.
keep excellent track of breeding days, usually by keeping
a marking pen and a roll of two-inch wide masking tape
handy. I write a note every time I put a doe in with a
buck, with the date clearly marked. Nest boxes go in five
days before birth. Be sure to get the correct size box.
The doe must have room to turn around without stepping
on the bunnies. I place about three to four quarts of
pine shavings in the nest, which is one to two inches
deep in the bottom of the box, and two big handfuls of
straw, any kind. Never use redwood shavings or redwood
resting boards or make nest boxes from redwood. It is
toxic to rabbits. They love to gnaw on wood and eat fruitwood
twigs and saplings as a natural part of their diet.
very careful not to let curious people "check"
to see if the baby bunnies have come. The does get very
nervous. Only the regular person should be near the rabbits
when bunnies are due. And for the next ten days until
the eyes are open no one else should touch them. I do
sometimes allow a child, sworn to silence, to peer into
the nest box, filled with fur and moving gently. The doe
pulls all the fur from her nipples and leaves them nude
so the bunnies can nurse. She sometimes will rip fur from
other parts of her body, until the box nearly overflows
with fur. Do not remove any of this, unless temperatures
are very high, 90° F. In fact, if you know of an upholstery
shop, buy a few pounds of kapok, which is a kind of pillow
stuffing from the inside of a kapok tree. It is the best
substitute for fur, in case it gets very cold or the doe
fails to pull enough fur.
sanitation: This takes less than two hours a week. Do
not allow matted hair and urine or wet droppings to build
up anywhere. Use a wire brush to clear away accumulations.
Brush the cage floor from both sides. Use water and a
wide paint scraper if the buildup is too much for the
wire brush. For a really messy cage, put the rabbit in
a holding area and scrub the entire cage with soap and
bleach, then rinse thoroughly. Generally, healthy animals
do not have these problems. Often a temporary case of
somewhat wet droppings can be fixed by giving the animals
a handful of clean straw, which adds fiber to the diet.
A rabbit with consistent diarrhea may be seriously ill,
possibly with "wool block" which happens more
with long-haired animals, and is similar to fur ball problems
in cats. By the way, one strange bit of information: any
medicines that are good for cats can also be used on rabbits,
such as ear mite medicine, etc. It's odd because rabbits
are completely vegan, and cats are carnivores.
three large fryers, about ten pounds of cleaned meat,
brings about $35. So selling three of them can cover feed
costs for about six to eight weeks, at $9 for 50 lbs.
There will still be plenty of meat to feed your family,
and an occasional pet to sell. Financially, this is the
most economical way to raise domestic meat. It is also
the • most land-conservative, both from the small
size of land used to house the animals and the amount
of acreage needed to provide food for this valuable source
research, which I hope will be done in various Permaculture
enclaves all over the world, we could determine just which
plants to feed for creating a completely recycled system,
needing no cash money at all, past equipment costs. The
best hint I have so far (from Bill Mollison) is that the
fiber plant called kenaf (seeds available from Texas International
Kenaf Center) contains adequate nutrition and needs no
preparation at all. The leaves, stalks, and flowers are
simply cut and placed in the cages. I have not had opportunity
to observe this however, so I don't know from personal
experience just how this fresh food system affects rabbit
production and general health. Comfrey can be fed to rabbits
as a supplement, though not as a staple. Small pressed
blocks of alfalfa are fed by many rabbit raisers, and
give rabbits something to gnaw on.
share new information about rabbits, especially relating
to permaculture. If enough people send me information,
I will start an email update quarterly. Also, we could
share information about who has rabbits in various locations,
and help design a working rabbitry near each permaculture